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Carclean.com - The Car Care Shop
Welkom op het forum van Carclean.com! Carclean.com is dé shop voor autopoetsmiddelen. En hier op ons forum vind je antwoorden op al je (poets)vragen.
Ben je op zoek naar autopoetsmiddelen en wil je deze aanschaffen? In onze Carclean.com webshop vind je het grootste assortiment car care producten van de Benelux.
- Unieke speciaalzaak in autopoetsmiddelen
- Advies op maat door vakkundige medewerkers
- Ongekend groot assortiment
- Voor 21.00 uur besteld, dezelfde werkdag verzonden!
- Makkelijk betalen: iDEAL, Credit Card, Mister Cash
autopoetsmiddelen in de schuur
- Topicstarter Michal
- Startdatum
Zoals al aangegeven: vorst is funest voor behoorlijk wat producten, en ook extreme hitte kunnen diverse producten slecht tegen. De producten die ik in de schuur bewaar kunnen daar tegen (bij. Gyeon prep, Autofinesse Crystal clear e.d. dus producten o.a. op alcoholbasis)
Doeken, washmitts en pads heb ik in huis in een kunststof box met deksel: in de schuur ben ik bang dat ze te vochtig worden in de winter.
Doeken, washmitts en pads heb ik in huis in een kunststof box met deksel: in de schuur ben ik bang dat ze te vochtig worden in de winter.
Als mijn zwarte auto bij een beetje warm weer in de zon heeft gestaan, wordt de lak behoorlijk heet. Het lijkt me minder handig als de wax niet tegen warmte kan.
Er is nogal wat verschil tussen gecurede wax op je auto en je wax terwijl die nog smeerbaar in je potjezit.
Trek maar eens een pot wax open die 15min in de zon heeft gestaan, dan begrijp je wat ik bedoel
Juist! Wax die (in juist consistentie) aangebracht is op de lak 'houdt' prima, terwijl wax die in de pot te warm wordt kan gaan scheiden en vervolgens uitdrogen....
Dat zou inderdaad kunnen. Maar het geldt niet voor elke wax in dezelfde mate. Ik heb namelijk ervaren dat Dodo Juice SN 2.0 prima tegen hitte kan.
Tijdens het waxen van mijn auto liet ik een keer een 200 ml pot Dodo Juice SN 2.0 uit mijn handen vallen waardoor deze brak. Flink balen natuurlijk maar ik heb toen wax uit de gebarsten pot geschraapt (of eigen een beetje 'gehakt' want deze wax is bij kamertemperatuur behoorlijk hard) en in een 30 ml panelpotje gedaan. Het restant in de gebarsten 200 ml pot heb ik ingepakt in plastic zakjes.
Omdat ik niet zo handig vond om een panelpotje met brokjes wax te hebben, besloot ik het panelpotje met daarin de waxbrokjes te verwarmen. Dat deed ik au bain marie, dus in een pan met water van rond de 100 graden celsius. De brokjes werden zachter en met een theelepeltje kon ik ze aanstampen tot er weer 1 waxmassa was zoals je eruit hoort te zien als je een nieuw potje koopt.
En nu het belangrijkste: de prestaties van de wax hebben niet geleden onder de verwarming.
Laatst bewerkt:
Wat vooral bedoeld wordt is dat bepaalde vluchtige componenten bij hoge temperaturen zullen verdampen, waardoor de wax daarna niet meer te verwerken is.
Vuistregel is om polijstmiddel en vloeibare producten niet te laten bevriezen.
Wax producten liefst koel bewaren. Niet te warm. Zeker niet laten bevriezen.
Ik dacht dat juist @Quantoxx daarover laatst ook een informatieve tekst van Dodo Juice had geplaatst op ons forum.
Vuistregel is om polijstmiddel en vloeibare producten niet te laten bevriezen.
Wax producten liefst koel bewaren. Niet te warm. Zeker niet laten bevriezen.
Ik dacht dat juist @Quantoxx daarover laatst ook een informatieve tekst van Dodo Juice had geplaatst op ons forum.
Misschien geeft dit stukje iets meer duidelijkheid.
We sometimes get asked how long our products last in their containers, before they should be thrown away.
It's a tricky one, as storage conditions, ambient conditions and actual usage are huge variables - and all play their part in shelf life or product longevity.
The basic rule is that anything containing a solvent is going to expire when the solvent is substantially lost. So if you keep a wax with the lid off, it is going to last weeks or months. But a wax kept in a sealed ziplock bag is going to be fine a decade later. Remember that few containers are fully airtight... although they don't need to be. The surface area exposed to air will be the deciding factor in how fast the solvent disappears. A bottle with a narrow neck will show less solvent loss than a wide mouth jar.
The volatility of a solvent plays its part. Water isn't very volatile, but IPA is. So leave Lime Prime with the cap off and it'll be fine for weeks. But you'll find your Red Mist evaporating heavily, especially on a hot day.
Separation or 'clumping' of products with a high solids content can occur. Polishes are often the classic offender in car care terms and if you have ever seen paint that's gone solid on the bottom with a runny amber liquid above the crust, you'll know this effect. Sometimes stirring or shaking helps. Sometimes the product has changed too much. But regular use of a product is always good and a little shake does no harm, even if it may not be necessary with nicely suspended solids.
As for accessories, use is critical - as is maintenance. Some microfibres and mitts last for years FOR SOME PEOPLE. Other people find the same products last weeks at best. It depends how aggressive you are with the product and how well you maintain it. Leaving your foam machine polishing pads soaking overnight in detergent and then ripping them off the backing plate unsympathetically, before stopping them off the panel (where momentum tugs the backing away from the foam) is not a recipe for long lasting pads. Fully natural wash mitts are very finickerty. They can't be too wet or too dry. Regular use is best. Even then, a year is a good innings for them.
Here's a little guide to expected lifespans and shelf lives:
PASTE WAXES
30ml mini jars (panel pots) - SHORT TO MEDIUM (these should be used before 12 months for best results as the small amount of wax has a large surface area and the container isn't airtight). Put it in a ziplock bag to extend longevity. But 30ml is enough for 6 months to a year of waxing at most, so these are not long term waxes.
200ml-500ml jars - MEDIUM TO LONG. The solvent is a slow evaporating type. Keep away from extremes of temp, sunlight and especially high temps. They sweat solvent more in high temps. The container is not airtight. We reckon 2-5 years longevity, but you could double that in cooler climates if the lid is securely on and the wax isn't used much.
POLISHES - MEDIUM - these tend to be water based and not very volatile. They may separate and need a shake, but clumping should not occur. 2-3 years would be anticipated, assuming the lid is on.
SHAMPOOS - LONG - these should last for 3-4 years. They have no solid particles so can't clump and they are water based. Do not let them freeze. Keep them away from sunlight or the dye may fade, if the product is coloured.
LIQUID SEALANTS AND SPRAY SEALANTS - SHORT TO MEDIUM - these tend to be volatile and have a high solids content. They will often cure in their containers if not used. Some very volatile products would need to be used within 6 months. We would suggest products of this type are used within the year and certainly kept away from extremes of temperature. Ziplock bagging them is a good idea.
DETAIL SPRAYS - MEDIUM TO LONG - low solids, low evaporation rate, water as a solvent. These should last for 3-4 years. Again, keep away from extremes of temps and direct sunlight.
CLAY - MEDIUM - if kept in a sealed or semi-sealed container (doesn't need to be 100% airtight but helps if it is) these should last 1-2 years. The solvent isn't volatile at all. But they can still dry out if they get too hot or if leeched by detergents. Never leave a clay bar soaking in a lube. They are more likely to be chemically decomposed than by just being left in a container.
NATURAL WASH MITTS - SHORT - 6 months to a year is doing well. These need to be regularly used; a constant wet>drying>almost dry>wet cycle is best for them. Being left wet is bad and becoming totally dry is bad. If you get more than a year out of one, without any moulting or unstitching, you should become a shepherd. You have the knack.
SYNTHETIC WASH MITTS AND SPONGES - LONG - 2-4 years. Sponges will feather if used on rough surfaces (grilles etc) but a synthetic mitt is hardy and will not moult. A much easier proposition if natural mitts are too prone to self destruction for your liking.
MICROFIBRES - MEDIUM - plush microfibres tend to last a little less time than standard short pile types. But they can be washed and rewashed, and often tumble dried, with no ill effect. If drying towels lose absorption, dry clean them. They will simply be soaked in water repellent silicones etc and need a thorough solvent clean.
MACHINE POLISHERS - MEDIUM TO LONG - 2-10 years or more. This depends on use (or abuse). A body shop angling a rotary and using it 12 hours a day could get through the brushes (wear item) in 6 months and kill the machine within 18 months. A hobbyist will see a decade from one, with maybe brush replacement after 2-3 years.
We sometimes get asked how long our products last in their containers, before they should be thrown away.
It's a tricky one, as storage conditions, ambient conditions and actual usage are huge variables - and all play their part in shelf life or product longevity.
The basic rule is that anything containing a solvent is going to expire when the solvent is substantially lost. So if you keep a wax with the lid off, it is going to last weeks or months. But a wax kept in a sealed ziplock bag is going to be fine a decade later. Remember that few containers are fully airtight... although they don't need to be. The surface area exposed to air will be the deciding factor in how fast the solvent disappears. A bottle with a narrow neck will show less solvent loss than a wide mouth jar.
The volatility of a solvent plays its part. Water isn't very volatile, but IPA is. So leave Lime Prime with the cap off and it'll be fine for weeks. But you'll find your Red Mist evaporating heavily, especially on a hot day.
Separation or 'clumping' of products with a high solids content can occur. Polishes are often the classic offender in car care terms and if you have ever seen paint that's gone solid on the bottom with a runny amber liquid above the crust, you'll know this effect. Sometimes stirring or shaking helps. Sometimes the product has changed too much. But regular use of a product is always good and a little shake does no harm, even if it may not be necessary with nicely suspended solids.
As for accessories, use is critical - as is maintenance. Some microfibres and mitts last for years FOR SOME PEOPLE. Other people find the same products last weeks at best. It depends how aggressive you are with the product and how well you maintain it. Leaving your foam machine polishing pads soaking overnight in detergent and then ripping them off the backing plate unsympathetically, before stopping them off the panel (where momentum tugs the backing away from the foam) is not a recipe for long lasting pads. Fully natural wash mitts are very finickerty. They can't be too wet or too dry. Regular use is best. Even then, a year is a good innings for them.
Here's a little guide to expected lifespans and shelf lives:
PASTE WAXES
30ml mini jars (panel pots) - SHORT TO MEDIUM (these should be used before 12 months for best results as the small amount of wax has a large surface area and the container isn't airtight). Put it in a ziplock bag to extend longevity. But 30ml is enough for 6 months to a year of waxing at most, so these are not long term waxes.
200ml-500ml jars - MEDIUM TO LONG. The solvent is a slow evaporating type. Keep away from extremes of temp, sunlight and especially high temps. They sweat solvent more in high temps. The container is not airtight. We reckon 2-5 years longevity, but you could double that in cooler climates if the lid is securely on and the wax isn't used much.
POLISHES - MEDIUM - these tend to be water based and not very volatile. They may separate and need a shake, but clumping should not occur. 2-3 years would be anticipated, assuming the lid is on.
SHAMPOOS - LONG - these should last for 3-4 years. They have no solid particles so can't clump and they are water based. Do not let them freeze. Keep them away from sunlight or the dye may fade, if the product is coloured.
LIQUID SEALANTS AND SPRAY SEALANTS - SHORT TO MEDIUM - these tend to be volatile and have a high solids content. They will often cure in their containers if not used. Some very volatile products would need to be used within 6 months. We would suggest products of this type are used within the year and certainly kept away from extremes of temperature. Ziplock bagging them is a good idea.
DETAIL SPRAYS - MEDIUM TO LONG - low solids, low evaporation rate, water as a solvent. These should last for 3-4 years. Again, keep away from extremes of temps and direct sunlight.
CLAY - MEDIUM - if kept in a sealed or semi-sealed container (doesn't need to be 100% airtight but helps if it is) these should last 1-2 years. The solvent isn't volatile at all. But they can still dry out if they get too hot or if leeched by detergents. Never leave a clay bar soaking in a lube. They are more likely to be chemically decomposed than by just being left in a container.
NATURAL WASH MITTS - SHORT - 6 months to a year is doing well. These need to be regularly used; a constant wet>drying>almost dry>wet cycle is best for them. Being left wet is bad and becoming totally dry is bad. If you get more than a year out of one, without any moulting or unstitching, you should become a shepherd. You have the knack.
SYNTHETIC WASH MITTS AND SPONGES - LONG - 2-4 years. Sponges will feather if used on rough surfaces (grilles etc) but a synthetic mitt is hardy and will not moult. A much easier proposition if natural mitts are too prone to self destruction for your liking.
MICROFIBRES - MEDIUM - plush microfibres tend to last a little less time than standard short pile types. But they can be washed and rewashed, and often tumble dried, with no ill effect. If drying towels lose absorption, dry clean them. They will simply be soaked in water repellent silicones etc and need a thorough solvent clean.
MACHINE POLISHERS - MEDIUM TO LONG - 2-10 years or more. This depends on use (or abuse). A body shop angling a rotary and using it 12 hours a day could get through the brushes (wear item) in 6 months and kill the machine within 18 months. A hobbyist will see a decade from one, with maybe brush replacement after 2-3 years.
Alles zit bij mij in Festool systainers opgeslagen bij kamertemperatuur.
Ik wil wat producten tijdens deze periode in mijn schuur zetten, het zal 's nachts denk ik niet meer gaan vriezen.
Waxen zal ik binnenhouden ivm hoge zomertemperaturen, maar verders kunnen voorlopig toch alle producten wel in de schuur?
Voor de winter haal ik alles wel weer naar binnen, maar zijn er nog producten die jullie adviseren om deze maanden niet in een schuur te bewaren?
Doeken hou ik wel binnen.
Waxen zal ik binnenhouden ivm hoge zomertemperaturen, maar verders kunnen voorlopig toch alle producten wel in de schuur?
Voor de winter haal ik alles wel weer naar binnen, maar zijn er nog producten die jullie adviseren om deze maanden niet in een schuur te bewaren?
Doeken hou ik wel binnen.
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